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Restaurant Reviews . Zenjava Cafe. Perkasie . Bucks County


Perkasie’s landscape is now marked with a delightful micro-gentrified spot.With little fanfare, the 500 block on the outskirts of town has developed an atmosphere and climate markedly different from the town’s norm. The flagship of this gentrification is Zenjava, Chefowner George Parkinson’s inventive, spruced-up café.









Restaurant Reviews . Zenjava Cafe. Perkasie . Bucks County

  



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Icon/Primetime A&E Magazine review by Robert Gordon: September 2007



They're called Microclimates, A term that refers to anomalies where the weather, the flora and fauna differ substantially from the surrounding region. Microclimates get their unique meteorology from any mixture of a number of factors including proximity to bodies of water, eccentricities of localized topography, exposure to sun, wind and/or rain, subterranean phenomena like geothermal springs, etc. As an example, in the coastal regions of West Cork in Ireland, thanks to the warmth of the Gulf Stream*, you find palm trees and tropical vegetation absent everywhere else on the Emerald Isle with its antithetically non-tropical weather.


Perkasie’s landscape is now marked with a delightful micro-gentrified spot.With little fanfare, the 500 block on the outskirts of town has developed an atmosphere and climate markedly different from the town’s norm. The flagship of this gentrification is Zenjava, Chefowner George Parkinson’s inventive, spruced-up café. The vibe at Parkinson’s microclimate-like BYOB is laid-back Florida-Keys chill with a yoga shop and cool-looking places to eat.


I’m not looking for Perkasie’s microclimate block to compete for the tourist dollar with any of our region’s long established small-town magnets like Doylestown, New Hope-Lambertville, or Newtown. Perkasie remains a calm, comely residential enclave, copious in smalltown charm and orderliness. It is not gearing up to be a tourist Mecca, at least not on the scale of standbys like New Hope.


But foodies, wine lovers and those in search of détente should take note: Perkasie’s 500 block is definitely worth a visit. The little nook reeks with escape-the-rat-race allure and Zenjava is its centerpiece. The building the Café occupies is a gem, literally. For decades, the space housed a jewelry shop. The edifice went up in 1917 as a boarding house for the trolley stop next door. Parkinson and his wife Nicoline have transformed it into a chic, tastefully funky space ideal for a destination BYOB. “We opened up the space, kept the huge windows, kept the original bricks in the wall,” George explains. “We also added a number of little touches that we feel are accommodating and comforting to our guests.”


A spiffy coffee bar (that serves delicious coffees) occupies the far corner of the dining room. Antiqued, original brick work serves as walls and shiny, natural wood floors sparkle. Large picture windows on the front and side open up the room graciously.Meanwhile, the energetic owners are plunging ahead full throttle rehabbing the second-floor. They're expanding the physical plant to accommodate plans to expand their popular Monday and Tuesday Wine Schools.


“I’m going for the second level of my Master Sommelier Certificate,” George explains. “Our Wine School idea has caught on nicely. At each school, I focus on a particular wine region and invite our guests to sample a number of varietals from that region. I discuss the nuances of climate and topography that influence the taste of each. We sample wines, and discuss wine culture for about an hour. Then we enjoy a 3-course meal.”All this for the astoundingly low price of $25 at present (as word of this spreads, demand will drive the price up, so clever foodies will book soon).


Appropriately, at each Wine School George addresses the microclimates that add nuance to their taste. And — did I mention the food at Zenjava? I assure you I am not violating my oft-stated principle that “the food is the thing.” The food is the thing here. Both the menu and the gastronomic philosophy are solid. I pushed back discussing the food simply because, for our region, the charm of the Café’s physical plant synergized with Perkasie’s little throw-back block are exciting news. Zenjava is not unique in the bigger world, but it is notable in our neck of the woods. The level of ambiance, cuisine, and low prices that fuse here are a siren call to foodies, oenophiles, and BYOB-lovers everywhere.


As for the chef ’s culinary philosophy, Parkinson asserts: “I set a simple rule. We don’t create any dishes that use more than five ingredients. I buy fresh and I believe in the European philosophy of allowing the ingredients to sing out without being stepped on.”


A Johnson and Wales grad, Parkinson, who was born in Bucks County, has spent a peripatetic life perfecting his culinary chops. He toiled in kitchens as well as in the front of the house in Rhode Island, California and other culinary hotspots. In addition, he worked for Kendall-Jackson Wines for years — a métier that stoked his oenological passions. He returned to Bucks in search of a café where he could not only flash his culinary skills but also create the kind of ambiance that’s conducive to upscale, moderately priced gustatory events like his Wine Schools. Perkasie fit the bill and the hip digs he and his wife have fashioned provide the platform for his ambitions of cultivating a clientele with an appreciation of the wonders of wine.


Zenjava’s moderately priced menu changes frequently. The kitchen serves a number of tapas like wild mushroom tart, salmon cakes, and spicy vegetable wontons. Kudos to the kitchen on the wonton crust. Ditto for the spicy crab rolls. Crisped to perfection, devoid of grease, these dishes underscore the kitchen’s ken in the Asian culinary arts. Yes the “zen” in the café’s moniker insinuates a predilection for Asian preparation. That doesn’t mean Asian fusion — or confusion. The five-ingredient-limit rule is a check step to prevent straying aimlessly beyond gastronomic prudence. The menu is replete with paeans to both Mediterranean and Asian flourishes and dishes.


Among the entrées, Thai peanut pork loin is awash in clean vibrant flavor. Blackened catfish zings, while rib-eye steak with basil butter is a lusty treat, as is salmon in tarragon butter.


Desserts rock. Keep in mind this destination BYOB is also a lunch stop/coffee house featuring excellent brews and superb paninis for the lunch crowd (as well as $6 rock-bottom lunch specials).


Outside behind the restaurant, you’ll find one of the region’s most charming alfresco patios. And on Mondays and Tuesdays, Zenjava’s Wine Schools are the most economic /best bargain/best atmosphere/best early-evening-out wine-lover event I know of. Groups can also rent out Zenjava’s facilities for private parties. Corporate teams are invited to tap into Parkinson’s wine expertise and conduct team-building sessions around a wine tasting.


The zenjava.net website gives info on upcoming events. You can also print out a coupon for a 10% discount for two for dinner (Wine School excluded). No matter what, you’ll find an isolated microclimate. * To scientists, the term “Gulf Stream” refers to one of the planet’s major climatic forces and shapers of mankind’s destiny; to the Bush Administration, “Gulf Stream” refers to the steadily flowing warm stream of campaign contributions emanating from a valued, well-represented member of its constituency.


















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 Restaurant Guide » Pennsylvania » Restaurants of Bucks County
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515 W. Walnut Street
Perkasie Pennsylvania 18944
USA



215-257-7181
























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