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Restaurant Reviews . Tortillas . Willow Grove . Mexican


In typical Mexican-American fashion, the dinner menu abounds with choices of enchiladas, burritos, quesadillas, and tacos. The appetizers include shrimp jammers, which are butterfly shrimp filled with diced jalopeño and cheese and a fruity mango salsa.









Restaurant Reviews . Tortillas . Willow Grove . Mexican

  



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Icon/Primetime A&E Magazine review by Robert Gordon: March 2006


La gente pack into Tortilla’s like shredded beef in one of Tortilla’s own abundant tacos. The crowds have been filling this popular Willow Grove taquería for years. Tortilla’s booths and tables swell with the ranks of the hungry: parents shepherding tots or teens in transit, reversed-visor cap-donners ranging from the young through the too-old-for-a-chapeau-statement demographic, and senior citizens. They all find the sustenance they seek at Tortilla’s.


Tortilla’s was brought to Willow Grove by Rebecca McCarren, who migrated east from southern California where she had developed a zest for Mexican-American cooking. She also cultivated a knack for preparing this eat-hardy cuisine. The Mexican-American restaurant in its most popular and ubiquitous form transports the tastes and textures of everyday Mexican cooking north of the border.With its fish of the day selection and a few others, however, Tortilla’s offers excursions into finer Mexican preparation, which more closely adheres to the Spanish gastronomic tradition.


Tortilla’s serves breakfast (but only on Saturdays and Sundays), lunch and dinner. They also serve a $7.95 all-you-can-eat brunch with complimentary champagne. Breakfasts here are a treat, if only for huevos rancheros, eggs served atop a soft corn tortilla awash in ranchera salsa and cheese. A heartier,more savory day-kicker-offer is hard to find.However, chorizo (sausage) scrambled eggs also turns in a yeoman’s job of awakening the tastebuds as do machacas, sautéed peppers, onions and shredded beef or chicken scrambled with two eggs. Machaca actually means hard-working, which underscores that this is sustenance for the hard-working — the tender mercy to start a hard day.


A fine selection of tacos, enchiladas, tamales, and “wrap of the day,” is available. Try the pizza: flour tortillas, layered with your choice of bean, chicken or beef and topped with tomatoes, onions, and red enchilada sauce. It’s a piquant twist on the Italian-American standard.


In typical Mexican-American fashion, the dinner menu abounds with choices of enchiladas, burritos, quesadillas, and tacos. The appetizers include shrimp jammers, which are butterfly shrimp filled with diced jalopeño and cheese and a fruity mango salsa. A note on the salsas: Tortilla’s makes its own. Their salsas nose out local competition for freshness and tanginess. There’s a complimentary salsa bar, which is a nice touch. It allows you to savor all of Tortilla’s homemade salsas (chipotle, guajillo, mango, verde, de arból, and guacamole). I find the mango salsa outstanding. If you do as well, you can purchase pints and half-pints of the mango, or any of the other salsas, to take home.


I should also note that Tortilla’s prides itself in taking a healthier approach to gastronomy than others of its genre. They use only cholesterol free canola oil to cook. They also marinate their meats in their own spices; not necessarily a healthy touch, but it is a boon to taste and freshness.


As for other appetizers, the Buffalo shrimp have a fiery kick. Salad lovers will find a huge (most Tortilla’s servings are huge) taco salad heaped with shredded beef or chicken, tomatoes, onions, jalapeños, cheese, guacamole, and sour cream. The entire ensemble plops atop a large flour tortilla. For the more traditional American palate, there’s a salad of lettuce and greens topped with cucumbers and tomatoes.


Dinners include tilapia or chicken breast crusted with bread crumbs, cilantro and lime. The fish or fowl is pan sautéed. Red snapper is another fish choice on the regular menu. There’s also a New York strip steak, so there are plenty of choices for any non-Mexican foodie in your midst. The chuletas chipotle are a zippy presentation of pork loin chops that are sluiced in chipotle sauce.


Desserts are a reasonably priced treat. Aside from the de rigeur flan or custard, there are buñuelas, which are tortilla chips sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and drizzled with caramel and chocolate. There’s also a dessert of the day and mini chimichangas filled with fruit. All desserts are priced below $3.25, which is why so many families and kids find regular tables here. They all have the look of being in transit —headed somewhere to the next activity — and headed there happy after eating at Tortilla’s.









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Willow Grove Pennsylvania
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