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Restaurant Reviews . Patagonia Bar and Grill . Newtown . Bucks County


On the appetizer menu, Daniel’s overstuffed quesadillas and flaky empanadas, spicy little turnovers filled with ground meat or fish, remain a fixture and favorite as they do at Café con Leche.









Restaurant Reviews . Patagonia Bar and Grill . Newtown . Bucks County

  



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Icon/Primetime A&E Magazine review by Robert Gordon: August 2007


In the business world, the term customer loyalty is cavalierly bandied about. You can see it in some places, but it’s most impressive when you hear it.Maybe it’s not so much hearing it as it is being drawn into its arena. That’s what, years ago, made my first visit to Café con Leche memorable.


It was a dark and stormy night … It actually was. The evening was indeed stormy — stormy as in snow-stormy. The weather was icy, bitter cold, nature behaving badly. Who, on such a daunting night, would brave the elements just to eat out — other than mad dogs, Englishmen, and the odd (some would say very odd) reviewer seeking to buck the maddening crowd to sneak in a quick restaurant review?


I figured we would be the only ones at Café con Leche that blustery evening.Wrong. The little subterranean boîte was full, animated and bustling with regulars.We knew dead-on that they were regulars because they told us. They actually crowed about it.What’s more, they invited us into their fun, laying fulsome praise on the Café, the food and the owners.We dined that evening with plates from neighboring tables thrust our way (“You’ve gotta try this!”).We heard pleas (“You have to come here for breakfast. You’ve never had breakfast this good!”). And we soon found out, they were on to something. Café con Leche was some place special.


What makes this particular memory stick was that the food merited the hype of the “Café con Leche” galoshes-garbed groupies.We “discovered” Daniel Lucci that night — a talented, tireless chef who, at the time, was serving breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. After that first visit, I never failed to stop at Café con Leche whenever I was near Newtown. And Café con Leche never failed to delight.


Now, Daniel and Silvia have opened Patagonia Bar & Grill in Richboro. Patagonia is a different venue than Café con Leche. It sports a full bar and lots of comely dining space. But the main ingredient is unchanged. The fare simply rocks — for all three meals. Let me qualify that: Breakfast is served only on Saturday from 7 to 11 with brunch served Sunday from 7 to 3.


Now on to the fare: several cross-over hits have been transported from the mother ship Café con Leche to Patagonia. On the appetizer menu, Daniel’s overstuffed quesadillas and flaky empanadas, spicy little turnovers filled with ground meat or fish, remain a fixture and favorite as they do at Café con Leche. Simply stated, the balance and zingy fresh ingredients of these staples characterize the way Daniel’s cuisine blows away the soppy, sorry bar burritos served up at places turning out ersatz South- American fare. However, neither Patagonia nor Café con Leche is a “burritos” joint. They’re a small part of the menu. Daniel happens to be one of the finer masters of Italian cuisine in the county. That’s not surprising. Italian cooking is the reigning cuisine in Patagonia, his homeland. Many Italians settled the region, an area that includes parts of Chile and Argentina located at the tip of South America.


Patagonia’s apps menu includes meaty barbecued eel and seared tuna encrusted with whole grain mustard and sesame seeds. The Tapas del Dia however best proves the mettle of the chef. This plate is not a “compo” that harvests/raids the other appetizer dishes, which is the practice in less energetic kitchens. The Tapas del Dia are made solely for this dish. The particular tapas change daily and reflect a globe-trotting perspective.


Daniel prepares no less than 16 pastas that drip with Mediterranean flair. The poster dish is, not surprisingly, Linguini Provençal which combines kalamata olives, diced tomatoes, capers and rosemary with smoked salmon into a juicy spicy unity. Penne Silvia gathers sautéed spinach, onion, garlic, herbs, and diced tomatoes to lend saucy zip to fresh salmon in white wine lemon juice sauce.


There are too many outstanding dishes to describe. The Argentinean Churrasco — a skirt steak capped with the most zippy chimichurri sauce this side of Patagonia — is a must-try destination dish. But so is the Grilled Mahi-Mahi whose lusty sweetness gains heady accent from bell pepper orange sweet-sour, hot chipotle sauce. Suffice it to say: Patagonia Bar & Grill is a must for the destination diner.


Desserts are an added coup. CIA graduate Stephanie Weselous who spent eight years as sous pastry chef at Le Bec Fin, confects nothing but the extraordinaire like Rocher, feather-light chocolate hazelnut mousse on a delicate praline chocolate wafer; classic vanilla bean crème brûlée; and almond dacquoise: two almond meringue cookies filled with decadent praline buttercream.


However, beyond Stephanie’s and Daniel Lucci’s substantial culinary skills, there is much to extol at Patagonia — more than space permits. Start with the customer focus, evident in the way-low tariff on some surprisingly good Argentinean wines by the glass, like the $4.75 Crios-Malbec and another white Crios for $5. By-the-bottle prices impress as well, like Smoking Loon cabernet for $20.


The entire experience at Patagonia is customer-centric. The interior, marked by warm, sophisticated décor is open, airy, and aesthetically pleasing. A koi pond lends grace and poise to a masterfully designed space that affords diners ample room for maximum comfort and enjoyment.


I would be remiss not to briefly profile the owners. Daniel and Silvia demonstrate a level of civic commitment that humbles many native-born Americans. They have dedicated themselves to giving back, engaging with, and strengthening the local community. They were recently honored (and surprised) when they were notified they were one of only a dozen PA small businesses nominated for the prestigious Small Business of the Year Award. The field nationally is 300. The winner will be chosen on criteria like how well the business is run and how much the owners contribute to the community. I’m confident that Patagonia will develop the same legions of loyal fans as Café con Leche. If the judges ever pay the restaurant a visit some dark and stormy night, the Luccis will be a shoe-in.














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