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Art Events and Celebrations This Weekend in Hunterdon County, New Jersey
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Union County New Jersey hosts world-class HO scale layout for the holidays
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Frenchtown Artist Moves to New Location
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Cathy Smith Designs Sets Frenchtown Grand Opening in New Race Street Location
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Basil Bandwagon Natural Market
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Local Poetry Festival Returns October 24th and 25th
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Restaurant Reviews . No. 9 . Number 9. Number Nine . Lambertville


The kitchen here is as consistent as any we find in our food travels. The dishes are characterized by bright flavors, fresh,local ingredients, and inviting presentations.Not a bad triumvirate — especially when the chef sticks with winners when he creates them.









Restaurant Reviews . No. 9 . Number 9. Number Nine . Lambertville

  



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Icon/Primetime A&E Magazine review by Robert Gordon: May 2007



This job certainly has its surprises. Take No. 9 for example. No. 9 is one of Lambertville’s senior senators, one of its most solidly established restaurant destinations. And therein is the surprise. It’s not. No. 9 has only been operating for five years or so. You could have fooled me. It seems like Matthew Kane has been turning out dynamite dishes for decades. I’ve reviewed No. 9 a number of times for Primetime A & E and other publications. As judges at the New Hope Food and Wine Festival, my wife and I deemed Matthew’s handiwork worthy of First Place finishes. Twice. So it’s surprising that No. 9 is actually a fairly new kid on the Kline Court block, where it replaced the New Orleans Café. But in reviewing my notes, sure enough, No. 9 is indeed a child of the new millennium. It seems like I’ve been recommending this place forever. And why wouldn’t I? The feedback I get from everyone I send is always glowing.


My most recent visits have done nothing but reinforce the perception that No. 9 has been around forever. The place retains its bistro charm with its archetypal river town cheery interior. Paintings by local artists hang on walls painted minimalist white. A bouncy, pleasant and stylish wait staff seems happy to be there and happier still to serve.


The kitchen here is as consistent as any we find in our Primetime food travels. The dishes are characterized by bright flavors, fresh, local ingredients, and inviting presentations.Not a bad triumvirate — especially when the chef sticks with winners when he creates them. Actually, he not only sticks with them, he perfects them. Matt Kane is meticulous to a fault — although “fault” is not apropos. His attention to detail is a boon to diners. No dish leaves the kitchen prematurely or haphazardly. Foodies who dine out frequently made No. 9 a regular stop long ago. In fact, arguably No. 9 may boast the largest, most loyal cadre of regulars of any area café — a tangible dividend and tribute to its consistency.


Some dishes undergo little tweaks here and there. But stalwarts like the roasted beet salad with goat cheese still play with the same syncopation that made this dish one of my favorites years ago. “Back by popular demand” is more than a punch line at No. 9; it’s a way of doing business and a customer expectation. The regulars won’t allow tried-and-true favorites to drop out of sight. I play that game myself. It’s hard for me to kick my braised short ribs with horseradish crème sauce habit. That’s a dish that won No. 9 a best entrée award a few years ago at the New Hope Food & Wine Fest. Call it smooth. The sauce scintillates with taste and creamy texture. The meat is fork-tender. The homemade horseradish adds bracey counterpoint that never competes with the main melody.


Griggstown (a local supplier) farm chicken, a frequent special on the menu, is a full poulet dressed in chianti-laced grape sauce on a vermicelli bed. Another longtime house favorite, the grilled hangar steak is sparked with red wine demiglace and spunky blue cheese.


Though the virtue of constancy pervades the menu, some dishes undergo some nice tweaks. The grilled porterhouse pork chop comes sluiced with roasted peaches or juicy sweet cabbage. The past version employed a mixed berry coulis. On a visit five years ago, ginger and cucumber salad sided pan-seared salmon with a wasabi green garnish. Though today’s version differs slightly, it continues to explore delicious Asian overtones. Asian slaw, Pongu and wasabi add tasty bite.


Chocolate pot de crème scores on silky smoothness and chocolaty flavor, all moderated with finesse. All the desserts are house-made and they all taste as good as ever. Of course, that’s no surprise. That’s what keeps the place full and keeps me making the same recommendation: Go to No. 9. I’ve been making that recommendation for what seems like forever.











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