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Restaurant Reviews . Marsha Browns . New Hope . Creole


Fish and shellfish selections sizzle with Creole flair. Sautéed catfish is not blackened Cajun-style, the ubiquitous version in these parts. Rather the meaty fish is served in brightly spiced Creole sauce. Creole trout comes sautéed with crabmeat in Creole scampi.









Restaurant Reviews . Marsha Browns . New Hope . Creole

  



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Icon/Primetime A&E Magazine review by Robert Gordon: August 2007


Marsha Brown's is not a steakhouse. Even calling this New Hope gem “more than a steakhouse” rings shallow, Madison Avenue-ish and lifeless. No one could tag Marsha Brown’s with any of those. The place has an exhilarating vibe — one that I never felt in the parish church of my youth.


Strange reference, I know — unless you’ve been to Marsha Brown’s. I mean no sacrilege here. Marsha Brown’s occupies a former house of worship. The Church-esque motif upstairs is not only hip, but also bears a striking resemblance to the parish church of my youth where I spent many an anxious hour ducking a squadron of yardstick-toting nuns patrolling, ever pious and petulant. Marsha Brown’s back wall features a gigantic, spectacular painting rimmed in a gilded lancet-arch shaped frame, precisely like the frame around the painting behind the main altar in my old church. That painting shows a tonsured St. Dominic. The saint appears benignly peaceful after an exhausting day doing God’s service by expediting the final judgment of Cathars and other heretics. In Marsha Brown’s, the frame features a painting of St. George, or so the servers tell me. (In Christian mythology, St. George slayed a dragon, a feat so impressive to Christians in England and Portugal that George does double duty as patron saint of each country — an honor George apparently takes seriously, having spared both countries from the ravages of dragons ever since he came on board).


The main dining room upstairs at Marsha Brown’s is phenomenal. Large stained-glass windows line the walls. Downstairs, the barroom framed by massive murals of the extant areas of the Big Easy rocks. Next to the bar, an intimate gem of a dining room is swaddled in New Orleans mystique.


A glance at the menu underscores that Marsha Brown’s is not a steakhouse. To be sure, you can get succulent steaks: filets with Béarnaise sauce, NY strip steaks au poivre, and ribeyes slathered in Western sauce.However, the Creole food is the attraction for foodies. And make no mistake: the Creole touch sanctifies this place as a foodie destination.


Besides décor and the myriad Creole favorites on the menu, Marsha Brown’s appetizer list widens the gulf between the eatery and mere steakhouses. Most steak houses don’t devote serious capital — intellectual, economic or otherwise — to appetizers (though Earl’s in Peddlers Village is an exception).When clients are gluttonizing ecologically irresponsible 32- and 48-ounce chunks of the animal kingdom, they have little need or appetite for anything else gastronomic. Marsha Brown’s however sweats the small stuff. It’s a haven for grazers.


In tasty jambalaya, the duck and andouille sausage (a redundancy: andouille is sausage) bask in a lusty roux powered with peppers and onions. Creole brisket partners with stewed veggies and spicy Creole sauce. Crawfish spring rolls get a boost from spicy remoulade sauce. Basin Street mussels come sluiced in kickin’ Creole BBQ sauce. The creamy earthiness of Gouda cheese rolls off each forkful of crab-laced cheese cake, which is presented colorfully flanked by green and maroon dollops of coulis. But the pièce de résistance is the Eggplant Ophelia. This creation is actually a shrimp and crabmeat casserole mixed with grilled eggplant. The robust texture of the crabmeat and shrimp plays delectably off the velvety texture of the eggplant.


Fish and shellfish selections sizzle with Creole flair. Sautéed catfish is not blackened Cajun-style, the ubiquitous version in these parts. Rather the meaty fish is served in brightly spiced Creole sauce. Creole trout comes sautéed with crabmeat in Creole scampi. Crabcakes, too, soar on N’Awlins treatment slathered in a bright mustard Remoulade.


Side dishes are $6 extra. Twelve are offered. The sweet potato casserole with a crispy brown sugar topping is a standout as is the asparagus with peach vinaigrette.


Owner Marsha Brown is the driving wheel behind the menu’s Creole/Southern slant. Marsha owns several restaurants in the country’s Northeast corridor. However,Marsha Brown’s in New Hope is perhaps the flagship of her fleet.Marsha was born and raised in Louisiana. The cooking tradition in that neck of the woods, or that neck of the bayou as the case may be, is her passion. As manager and Executive Chef Caleb Lentchner acknowledges: “Marsha is involved in every dish we offer. She’s got a great palate and she participates in tastings of new dishes and tweaks on old ones. I think this is her favorite restaurant. She owns four Ruth’s Chris Steak houses, but she’s more restricted than here menu-wise. Here she gets the chance to do exactly what she wants, her way.”


Southern hospitality is a hallmark here. The staff is friendly and accommodating. The food is destination-worthy. And the décor is sophisticated, campy and fun — to say nothing of singular and striking. That would be striking to the eye, of course, not striking to the knuckles like the church of my youth.














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