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Restaurant Reviews . Cross Culture . Lahaska . Peddlers Village


Personable owner and sometime chef Monty Kainth opened the little BYOB in February. Since then, the restaurant has won over a nucleus of fans.Most are converts to the nuances of Indian cuisine.









Restaurant Reviews . Cross Culture . Lahaska . Peddlers Village

  



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Icon/Primetime A&E Magazine review by Robert Gordon: January 2007


Too many of our citizens dismiss Indian food off-handedly. It’s too hot, too spicy, too exotic, too whatever. Choose your cliché. But a cuisine that coalesced from a diverse gastronomic galaxy over such a long period of time merits more earnest examination, particularly a cuisine that relies on vegetables and leaner meats and is generally healthier.


The British don’t diss Indian food. They crave it. In fact, the rule of thumb for travel in Britain used to be: Eat Indie food — and only Indie food. The British, as the cliché went or goes, kill their food twice: first in the slaughterhouse and again in the stove. Things are changing. British cuisine, once a word pairing as vacant as Bush diplomacy, is improving. Jamie Oliver’s celebrity along with a reborn swinging London that swarms with foreign chefs is starting to turn heads and change palates.


Notwithstanding Britain’s foodie naissance (in Britain’s case it’s not a renaissance), Indian food on its own merit is still a great choice over there. It’s also an eye-opener for American foodies visiting the Isles. A few years ago, we spent a bit of time up north, Manchester way, where Indie food rules unchallenged. The Indian food in storefronts like Manchester’s celebrated Indie Mile is tasty, reasonable, and healthy. The spiciness and zing found in Brit Indian food generally falls short of faithful replication on these shores. New York and LA are exceptions. That’s because the immigrant populations support the cuisine. Expatriates are the most reliable authenticity police.


A new restaurant named Cross Culture in Peddler’s Village is adding a welcome whiff of ethnicity to Bucks’s culinary scene. Personable owner (and sometime chef) Monty Kainth opened the little (it’s about a 30-seater) BYOB in February. Since then, the restaurant has won over a nucleus of fans.Most are converts to the nuances of Indian cuisine. The reasonable prices here certainly help in the conversion. So do the generous portions. The greatest allure however is the food. The dishes scintillate. Swirls and tingles of spicing intensify each forkful.


I confess a preference for Indian breads and I’m an unabashed seeker of outstanding breads. Most are unleavened flatbreads resembling thick tortillas. Some are deep fried, and others are baked in tandoors (underground clay ovens). Indian breads are often used in place of silverware to sop up the full measure of each dish. Naan, a traditional pulpy, chewy white bread, is a natural choice for the sop job. At Cross Culture, naan arrives tableside warm and delectable. Do treat yourself to some of the other breads like panir kalcha, an unleavened bread filled with cheese and spices and aloo paratha (griddle-fried flat breads) stuffed with spicy potatoes.


The mixed appetizer-for-two offers an ideal way to sample the cuisine. The price is only $7.95, invitingly low for the first-time explorer of Indie food as well as the inveterate fan. Spinach balls (harabhara kabab), deepfried and rife with garbanzos, coriander leaves, mint, coconut, chile paste mixed to delectable consistency. The spinach balls team well with papadam, crackly unleavened wafers that snap muscular jolts of cheese and Indian spices onto a palate. Besides the spinach balls and papadam, a tempting spectrum of other Indian delights festoon the plate.


The tandoori mixed grill plates tandoori chicken, chicken tikka, seekh kabob, boti kabob, shrimp tandoori and fish tikka. Again this dish facilitates sampling a veritable meat-lover’s smorgasbord (to borrow a culinary term from much further north) for only $19.95.


Entrée selections fall into vegetarian, chicken, lamb and seafood categories. Many of the same generic preparations pop up in each category of this quartet. However, subtle differences distinguish each. For instance, korma is a mild curry made with yogurt sauce and cream with a mixture of coriander, cumin, cardamom, cloves and nuts. The menu lists vegetarian korma, chicken korma, and lamb korma. However, the cream sauce in the Navaratan vegetarian korma is slightly different. Its base of coconut milk lends a different undertone than those found in the other two korma dishes.


Chicken tikkha masala places boneless chicken broiled in the tandoor into a rich broth of tomato, onion and cream. Spinach provides savory counterpoint to herb-charged lamb saagwala.


Delicious desserts flash nice exotic flair. Gulab jamun, a longtime favorite encountered in some globetrotting menus elsewhere, is warm milk and cheese balls soaked in syrup. Rasmali is homemade cheese simmered with nuts and served cold. Persian falooda mixes rose-flavored milk and falooda (which is essentially vermicelli made of starch of corn and water) and tops them with ice cream.


The small but tidy interior is visually resplendent with cheerful, stylish colors that complement the bright tastes of the cuisine. Bring a bottle of wine, but leave some room to try the tea. It’s outstanding. Monty and his wife also own the clothing store, Cross Culture, which is across the way. There you’ll find a cache of clothing and other bona fide articles from India. Browsing the shop after dinner is a bonus for the incurable shopper — kind of like a special final course. On the other hand, for those who qualify for “antithesis of the incurable shopper” status, a second order of gulab jamun fills the bill as a special final course. And if the incurable and the antithesis happen to be a pair, the gulab jamun not only tastes good. It can save a relationship.















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 Restaurant Guide
 Restaurant Guide » Pennsylvania » Restaurants of Bucks County
 Restaurant Guide » BYOB Restaurants
 Tags . Keywords » Icon Primetime Magazine Restaurant Reviews
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