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Restaurant Reviews . 90 Main . New Hope . Bucks County


90 Main has landed a talented chef. Craig Bonnet is the motive force behind those delicious tapas.









Restaurant Reviews . 90 Main . New Hope . Bucks County

  



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Icon/Primetime A&E Magazine review by Robert Gordon


The New Hope melange has gotten “mélangier,” That’s a good thing. As is 90 Main, one of the newer, more visible players in that mélange. 90 Main is rocking New Hope’s world and putting a different spin on its traditional brand of eclectic funk. Actually, that’s the rub. Eclectic as the New Hope scene is — as numerous as its bistro and white-table choices are — the urbane, chic, metro vibe is muted. So 90 Main is sounding large.


I’ll be honest. Initially, precisely because that missing metro vibe just didn’t seem to play in the mix, I thought 90 Main’s downside potential surpassed its upside. That’s business babble for...well, let’s say, if you build it, they won’t necessarily come. The takers for such a citified genre as 90 Main, I feared, might be sparse. To be sure, New Hope is Bucks County’s trendiest town. But New Hope’s particular brand of trendiness trades on artsy rusticity. The little riverside town is a citadel, an escape en plein air from frenetic city bustle. And though in the words of co-owner John Whitehead, 90 Main promised to be South Beach outside, it also promised to be New York chic inside.


Well, locals are buying into the 90 Main mystique. First of all, the owners have done a yeoman’s job of transforming the space, which was formerly a decidedly non-upscale hangout called the Ring Side Pub. The ambitious sow’s-ear-into-a-silk purse makeover is getting silkier all the time. The outdoor patio is New Hope-to-the-nines. Laid out expressly to be laid-back, the patio fronts the street, a veritable catbird seat for some of the borough’s best people-watching. The patio funnels into the focal point of the interior, a cast concrete wraparound bar clad with stainless steel railings.


The interior space, a work in progress, breathes chic. Elements like unisex bathrooms, an exposed brick wall, and an imported Italian stone facade insinuate the feel of a NY lounge. The sleek ambiance is colored in ubiquitous shades of steely grays and nuanced noirs.


Three ex-high school friends from nearby Richboro conceived and created 90 Main, which is essentially the concretization of their shared vision of “Manhattan comes to River City.” That’s vision with a “V” and that rhymes with “T” and that stands for tapas. Tapas rule here. As hopping a scene as 90 Main has become for those who like the night-life baby, the tapas are the thing. By themselves, they vaut le detour (they’re worth the trip). 90 Main isn’t only for those who like to boogie. Those tapas make it a nice destination for the less frenetic, more peripatetic crowd that cruises New Hope to shop and chill.


90 Main has landed a talented chef. Craig Bonnet is the motive force behind those delicious tapas. Craig carries a convincing CV. He toiled in respected kitchens like Opus 251, Circa (where he plied his craft under legendary Alphonso Contrisciani), Buddakan and Rittenhouse Square’s landmark Blue.


As for the tapas, you’ll find 90 Main’s well conceived list extensive and surprisingly well prepared. I say surprisingly because you don’t often find sushi and sashimi of this quality at non-Japanese restaurants. It is possible, just not probable. The sushi bursts with freshness and succulent ingredients. Suffice it to say, great sushi has hit New Hope proper.


The 90 Main salad, already a house favorite, scores high.Walnuts, gorgonzola cheese and Granny Smith apples lay a rainbow of flavor on turgid Belgian endive dressed in punchy cider vinaigrette. Calamari (which is becoming standard if not de rigeur on area menus) ranks among the region’s best. The miso vinaigrette and bok choy that spikes the calamari salad highlights the kitchen’s mastery of Asian techniques. The fried calamari tapa takes on an Italian tone. It’s served with peppers, caramelized onions and bathed in piquant marinara fra diavolo. The crab cakes are meaty delights made more succulent with remoulade dipping sauce. Ditto for the grilled baby lamb chops served with spinach studded with shitake mushrooms. Salmon is a paean to Mediterranean preparation. The fish is paired with calamari and fennel. The palmarès of tapas includes numerous other must-tries: the trio of hummus; the one-by-land, two-by-sea trio of beef, salmon, and tuna tartare; the seared ahi tuna — and on and on.


In the future, expect to see more entrées and still more tapas as the chef spreads his wings and cultivates a regular clientele. Expect to see a veritable showroom of new looks in the physical plant. The theme at 90 Main is about rocking: rocking taste buds with irresistible tapas and rocking the house with a nonstop entertainment schedule (check it out online). 90 Main is also about rocking New Hope’s gastononomic mix. And that’s a good thing.












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New Hope Pennsylvania 18938
USA



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